Monthly Archives: September 2012

Op-Ed Columnist: It Goes With Everything, Even Bad Hair

From Coco to Gaga, the L.B.D. works that old black magic.

Paris Collections: Spring 2013

Dior RTW Spring 2013

The weekend shows were full of everything from Gothic glamour at Givenchy to the wonderfully weird at Comme des Garcons to overt sensuality at Haider Ackermann.

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Tisci’s Turn

There are a few things we’ve come to expect of Riccardo Tisci’s Paris after-party. The location: L’Arc nightclub in the 16th. The sardine can VIP section, packed with fans and well-wishers. Kanye West. And of course, editors dancing on couches. This season, Anna Dello Russo and Giovanna Battaglia gamely took on that duty.

But as Tisci celebrations go, this was a more intimate affair than in previous seasons. That’s not to say it was low-key. And there was enough star power (Erin Wasson, Lea T, and Sky Ferreira, who’s releasing a new music video today, were just a few of Tisci’s friends in attendance) and buzz about the Givenchy collection to make up for it.

“Ricky did such a fantastic show. Really sharp, sophisticated, and focused,” opined Dello Russo, dressed in head-to-toe Givenchy. The designer himself was enjoying a post-show exhale. “I hope those who saw it felt the same emotion that I did when making it, which is purity, simplicity, and love,” he said serenely. Meanwhile, the fashion week machinery cranks on. Talk was already beginning to turn to the next big show: Saint Laurent. “I’m so excited for Saint Laurent. I’m really hoping for something…exciting,” Tisci shrieked before going to dance with Rachel Zoe. He hinted that he might be attending one special show. He wouldn’t name names, but it’s not hard to guess.

—Katharine K. Zarrella

Hello, Gorgeous!

One of the dangers of working in fashion is that it’s easy to become convinced that everyone in the whole world is incredibly attractive. That danger was acute at the Purple magazine dinner hosted by Diane von Furstenberg last night. The third and perhaps final celebration of Purple’s 20th anniversary, the dinner saw such professionally attractive people as Scarlett Johansson, Karlie Kloss, Arizona Muse, Jessica Stam, and Natalia Vodianova turning up to Chez Castel to raise a toast to the magazine and its perpetually be-sunglassed editor, Olivier Zahm.

But if the bevy of beauties left the merely very attractive remainder of guests feeling put out, there were other comforts to be had: the post-dinner dance party in the basement, a chat with DVF. She, of course, occupies that goddess zone of “legendary beauty.” But even she’s human. “Oh, I was feeling really sick for a few days,” she said. “It’s remarkable I even made it to Paris.” Even legendary beauties have down days, thank heavens. But von Furstenberg still counts herself blessed. Asked how she came to be hosting the dinner for Purple, a magazine whose cover she graced not so long ago, von Furstenberg gave a mighty Gallic shrug. “Like everything wonderful in my life, it just happened.” Some people just have all the luck.

—Maya Singer

Young Again

Anyone looking for a divining rod to the ups and downs of fashion’s heritage houses would do well to keep an eye on Pamela Golbin: It seems that every time the chief fashion curator of the Musée des Arts Décoratifs stages an exhibition, a house is reborn. She did Schiaparelli back in 2004. And the blockbuster Madeleine Vionnet: Puriste de la Mode three years ago was proof that the name still holds serious firepower 100 years on. “It’s hard to remain indifferent when you’re looking at perfection,” Golbin remarked last night at the Hôtel Salomon de Rothschild during the cocktail that celebrated the house’s centennial. That perfection is what the house sought to channel with its new demi-couture line, separate entirely from the collection shown on the ready-to-wear runway on Friday, which debuted at the black-tie affair.

” ‘Daunted’ does not even begin to express how I feel! I’m literally shaking,” exclaimed Vionnet’s new co-owner, Goga Ashkenazi, as she greeted guests including Karlie Kloss, Anja Rubik, Dolores Chaplin, Ne-Yo, and Natalia Vodianova. Ashkenazi, who left her family in London and took up residence in Milan to tackle this project, said that she and her best friend/fashion mentor Eva Cavalli had stayed up until all hours the night before, styling the collection. “I was always top of my class in sewing as a girl. Now I am on the floor, cutting and sewing, trying to learn as much as I can—I’m loving it. I feel like I was born to do this.”

After the runway presentation of 20 looks designed by the in-house team, a film homage to modern dance pioneer (and Vionnet contemporary) Isadora Duncan underscored the label’s return to its roots, and a performance by singer Lianne La Havas rounded out the evening. Vionnet has been no stranger to turbulence in recent years, and whether the fashion alchemy takes hold in its second century remains a question of time. Noted La Chambre Syndicale’s Didier Grumbach, “It’s never just a matter of talent—there’s loads of talent out there. You also need lots and lots of positive energy.”

—Tina Isaac

Why Not-So-Young Adult Readers Crave Teen Fiction

Publishers have invented a new category of commercial fiction. It’s called “new adult,” and judging from the titles thus far categorized in the fledgling genre, it seems intended to appeal to women, especially the young women who in recent years have taken to reading books written for teenagers. According to

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Book of Alexander McQueen Images Set for Release

About 400 photographs by Anne Deniau appear for the first time in “Love Looks Not With the Eyes,” which will be published in German and English editions.

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Mary Lee Gallagher and Scott Rodner Join Jessica’s

The distributor of apparel to off-price retailers has tapped veterans of Liz Claiborne and TJX Companies to fill executive roles.

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Slideshow: Quirky Novelty Tops for Fall

During last month’s New York Fashion Week, it was refreshing to see the show-going set come out to play in decidedly dressed-down looks. Novelty sweatshirts, equal parts kitsch and high style, were suddenly everywhere. With their retro graphics and campy slogans, they are spectacularly on trend and certain to prompt

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Rech Paris Debuts During Fashion Week

Richard René designed the new line.

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