Author Archives: Davina Catt

Andrea Miller Hates Flip-flops But Can’t Live Without Sunscreen


Andrea Miller in her Park Slope store.

Andrea Miller is one of those inventive boutique owners who can mix design elements, genres, and eras with ease. Her Park Slope shop, Eponymy, carries everything from contemporary Korean designers to vintage Chanel jackets to artwork from her nonprofit organization, Humble Arts Foundation. She sat down to talk about where she sources her amazing finds and why she can’t stand flip-flops.

The store carries everything from antique mirrors to vintage Chanel jackets, and also showcases fine-art photographers. What was your inspiration for mixing art and style?
There wasn’t really any set outlook to the whole thing. My grandparents used to own an antiques shop in New Jersey and I found jewelry cases, antique mirrors, and all sorts of fixtures there. I had started the Humble Arts Foundation with a few friends a few years ago and just sort of put the whole thing together and winged it!

How do you think art and fashion influence one another, then?
They are both expressions of who we are. One movement in fashion and art is a direct resistance of the movement that came before it.

What exactly is the Humble Arts Foundation?
Humble Arts Foundation is a not-for-profit organization that works to advance the careers of emerging fine-art photographers by way of exhibition and publishing opportunities, limited-edition print sales, twice-annual artists’ grants, and educational programming.

From where do you source your goods?
You would be amazed what treasures you can find in small towns. I spend a few months driving around from Virginia to California and just meeting really interesting people!

What do you look for when buying?
I look for detail when buying vintage clothing and for pieces that will fit a variety of people.

Is there a story behind any of the more unusual things you stock?
I would say there is a real curiosity-type feel to the store, so I like to keep off-the-beaten-track-type pieces. There is a stuffed snake I have had since I was 8 years old that sits with a vintage necklace hanging out of its mouth. I also collected fossils when I was younger and have added in two displays for a personal touch.

What sort of woman shops at Eponymy?
Someone witty, adventurous, whimsical, open-minded, and with a sense of nostalgia.

What do you think every woman should have her in wardrobe?
A good pair of boots which look nice but which you can also walk in!

What trends do you like right now?
Trends are a funny thing to me. I only really take note of a trend if a bad one happens! I like a classic, elegant look. Good structure, good lines, and a good fit are also important.

What trends do you wish would just go away?
I could write a book on this, there are so many, but if I had to pick one it would be flip-flops in NYC — a complete liability; it should be kept as a beach look!

What is the one item you can’t live without?
Sunblock or cashmere socks.

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Filed Under: andrea miller, Eponymy, Tastemakers

Karen Erickson Is Addicted to Start-ups


Karen Erickson

Karen Erickson is one of those entrepreneurial sorts that makes the rest of us look like slackers. A fashion-industry insider since 1986, she founded Erickson Beamon jewelry, went on to launch Showroom Seven, and created fashion-PR company Seventh House with her daughter, Mandie. The lady who admits she has an addiction to start-ups takes a breather to talk to us about her latest venture, new retail concept Beyond 7, which mixes fashion-forward designers, including Elise Overland and Tony Cohen, with vintage guitars and psychic-reading appointments.

You’ve been successful in setting up an internationally recognized jewelry line and a PR company. What was your inspiration for this new retail concept, Beyond 7?
I have been in the wholesale business since 1986 and over time have come to think that it is the buyers who keep the public from the best fashion. You visit the best department stores and it’s always the same thing – Vince and Theory as contemporary wear and Lanvin as designer wear. Beyond 7 was a chance to let the customer see what we believe in!

You even stock vintage guitars and furniture, and appointments are available for psychic readings — how did you decide on that?
I am a huge astrology fan and thought it could be a lure. I have been collecting furniture for years — mainly from Michigan — so it just seemed an easy addition.

Weren’t you hesitant to launch it in this current economic climate?
People always need clothes.

What sort of woman shops at Beyond 7?
Quite simply anyone who’s fabulous.

Who are your favorite designers?
All the designers we represent in Showroom Seven. The list is endless, from Issa to Benjamin Cho to Orla Kiely.

What was the first designer item you ever bought?
A pair of Terry De Havilland metallic platforms — it all came back to me when we started working with Havilland during their relaunch about five years ago.

What are your future plans?
We are starting up a financial division, which will be available to help designers with the business side of things, since in these times money is severely encroaching upon fashion and art.

What is it about start-ups?
An addiction to always moving on to the next thing!

Have you had a mentor?
Donna Karan.

Best advice ever given?
Always analyze first who your good customers are and where the business is happening.

Is there anything you are particularly lusting after right now?
For me, fashion is very theoretical. I don’t think to myself, ‘I want that.’ It’s more about creating a story.

Fill in the gap: I can’t live without ________.
Kabbalah. I am a student of the Kabbalah Centre. It’s a life-changing experience and commitment.

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Filed Under: Beyond 7, Erickson Beamon, Karen Erickson, Mandie Erickson, Seventh House, Showroom Seven, Tastemakers

Alejandro Ingelmo Wants a Strong, Powerful Woman in His Shoes

With his super-sexy, fiercely edgy, modern designs, Alejandro Ingelmo is the man to watch when it comes to high-fashion footwear. He’s got shoes in his blood — four generations of his family have worked in the business in his native Cuba. Madonna wore a pair of heels for her H&M campaign, Jeffrey requested that he produce a men’s collection, and he most recently was a CFDA/Vogue finalist. Lucky for us, he slowed down his rollercoaster ride just long enough to talk about his dedication to both quality and his BlackBerry.

Generations of your family have worked in the shoe business. Did you always want to be a shoe designer, or did you just fall into it?
It was actually the last thing on my mind. I had wanted to go to design school since I was young, but not necessarily fashion. I went to Parsons and explored different things, such as design and pattern cutting and then shoe design, and realized it came naturally to me. Admittedly my grandfather’s great understanding of craftsmanship and quality has really influenced my mentality towards design.

From where do you source your materials? Is it hard to get access to good resources as a younger label?
I source everything from Italy, all my leather. When you start out, you want to make a mark, and one of the biggest challenges was getting access to good materials.

What is the inspiration behind your designs? How would you describe your direction or aesthetic?
I don’t really think in terms of inspiration. For me it’s all about “the new” — new materials, new textures. My creations are very forward. It’s an edgy aesthetic, very strong, very sexy, very modern.

What type of woman wears Alejandro Ingelmo shoes?
She is a modern woman. She is not the type to be at home cleaning and cooking! She has a powerful position in the world.

What’s in your future?
To keep on. I have just started doing bags — a small collection of clutches for spring/summer, which will develop into a full bag range.

What trends right now do you like?
I don’t follow trends, but if anything, I like what’s going on with women’s fashion. The boxy shapes and the extremes — as seen at Gareth Pugh. I think it’s where we are moving towards.

What trends do you wish would just go away?
Prints. I think they are just a way of disguising bad fabrics. I love to see the use of bold color and good fabric and stitching.

What do you think every woman should have in her wardrobe?
You know what I am going to say! A good pair of shoes!

Which designers do you wear yourself?
Dior Homme, Tim Hamilton shirts, my own shoes. I actually just bought a Dior Homme suit for the CFDA because I didn’t own one!

What is the one item you can’t live without?
Starbucks coffee, my BlackBerry!

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Filed Under: alejandro ingelmo, cfda vogue fashion fund, footwear, shoes, tastemakers

I Love Factory Would Love to Get Their Hats on Kate Moss


Christopher Garbushian and Laurel St. Romain

What started as a project designing miniature, hand-sewn headpieces for artsy, fashion-forward friends turned into an entire hat line for design duo Laurel St. Romain and Christopher Garbushian. I Love Factory, the Brooklyn-based label which aims to give the lost art of millinery a rebirth is having its moment in the sun. Gossip Girl featured two of the bespoke hats in a recent episode, and WWD pronounced the pieces the hot accessories to watch. We caught up with the two to talk about their inspiration, Rodarte’s tights, and the Cure.

How did you come up with the idea of I Love Factory? What were your inspirations?
Laurel: Ever since I was little, I have loved all things costume-related. I always used to wear ribbons and barrettes in my hair when I was young and noticed a complete dearth of sophisticated headpieces on the market. My inspiration comes from all over the place — from the yellow-brick road of leaves in the Green-Wood Cemetery to the little old trumpet-playing man in the second subway station.

How long does it take you to put a headpiece together from start to finish?
Laurel: Oh gosh, it completely varies. The creative process is so different from the assembly-line process. I would say, from start to finish, my entire Cure playlist!

Fancy a chapeau?Photo: Courtesy of I Love Factory

Is there a signature piece to the collection?
Christopher: They are all signature pieces! However, “The Prospect” particularly stands out. It’s a hand-created flower. The underneath backing is made up of black taffeta with lots of satin, silks, and feathers. We have also sewn on Swarovski crystals in an understated way.

Have you worked with any designers in the past? Do you look to any designers in particular?
Laurel: I was lucky enough to intern with Betsey Johnson, whose aesthetic I love.
Christopher: I particularly admire the avant-garde, London-based milliner Justin Smith. I also love the theatrical and exquisite workmanship of Rodarte, which we aim to emulate, Zac Posen’s collections, and the way Viktor & Rolf make fashion art!

What sort of woman do you envisage wearing I Love Factory headwear?
Laurel: A woman who wants to exude elegance and confidence.

Which current trend do you like right now?
Christopher: Accessories. It’s a trend that has been brought back and blown up. I love all the chunky, bold pieces around at the moment. They can really step up an outfit.

Which trend do you wish would just go away?
Christopher: I am not a fan of the boho-chic look. There are far too many people on the street doing it and more importantly doing it wrong!

Who in an ideal world would you like to wear I Love Factory?
Laurel: Kate Moss — she can pull off anything.
Christopher: Natalie Portman.

Is there any item you are lusting after right now?
Christopher: A pair of Marc Jacobs black military lace-up boots. They are so fresh!
Laurel: The Rodarte tights from fall 2008 in black and white.

What do you think every woman should have in her wardrobe?
Laurel: A pair of heels you can run in and a black eyeliner!

Where do you shop?
Christopher: The Barneys men’s store is fabulous — I love their displays. BBlessing on the LES.
Laurel: I window-shop at Opening Ceremony!

What is the one item you can’t live without?
Laurel: Kiehl’s baby lip balm.
Christopher: Green and Black 85 percent dark chocolate. I always keep some in my bag!

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Filed Under: Christopher Garbushian, hats, I Love Factory, Laurel St. Romain, Tastemakers

Juliana Bass Is Sick of Your Colored Tights

With a background in costume design from her time studying at FIT, and an eye for fifties silhouettes (with a Victorian hint tossed in), newcomer Julianna Bass has produced a collection that on mere first glance was so breathtaking that German Vogue and WWD have pronounced her an upcoming designer to watch. We couldn’t agree more and sat down to talk to her about the pressures of starting your own label, her disdain for the leggings trend, and her wacky obsession with collecting vintage pocket watches.

Your spring/summer ‘09 pieces have a fifties-esque feel to them. What was it about the era which you find inspiring?
I was involved in costume design during my FIT studies, so I have always been interested in different eras, in particular the 1950’s and the Victorian times, which inspire my spring/summer ‘09 collection. I like taking things to the extreme, playing with shape, silhouette, and volume.

Structure and silhouette are strong components of your work complete with bows and dramatic expression. Is that a reflection of your own personal style?
Yes and no. I think the dramatic element is more a reflection of my personality. My own personal style is more subdued. I am more interested in vintage pieces and vintage jewelry. If I had the guts, I would wear a vintage hat every day.

A look from Juliana’s spring collection.Photo: Courtesy of Juliana Bass

Who are your favorite designers?
My favorite designers of all time are Christian Lacroix and Vivienne Westwood. The way they portray their collections is a work of art. I strive to be like that!

What has been the most challenging aspect to setting up your own label?
Trying to pair the business side whilst maintaining a sense of creativity. People don’t realize this is a business. They think it’s a fairy tale. There is so much groundwork which goes into setting up your own label.

What trends do you like this season?
For spring, I like the mixture of vibrant colors: the bold, unexpected block of colors, and neutrals. I also liked the structured organza. I was really inspired by Giles Deacon’s collection.

What trends do you wish would just go away?
I have to say the leggings trend, which is everywhere. It is a convenient look, but it’s getting old and needs to die. As for colored tights — no, no, no!

What has been the best advice you’ve received?
Not to let the industry get the best of you. It is a cutthroat business, so keep your integrity.

Where do you shop?
Mostly vintage stores. I love Stella Dallas, which is located near where I live in Williamsburg.

Which designers do you actually wear the most?
I have plenty of vintage Oscar de la Renta and Marc Jacobs. The piece I always end up falling back on is an Oscar de la Renta vintage silk-crêpe tuxedo blouse, which is pleated all the way down the front.

Do you have your eye on anything right now?
I covet wacky, abstract hats. I also collect vintage pocket watches. I own about six, which I ransacked a few years ago from my grandmother’s closet.

What should every woman have in her wardrobe?
A pair of oxford heels and a black pencil skirt.

What can’t you live without?
A cover-up stick for under-eye bags and Thursday-night TV!

Juliana Bass is currently carried at Forest Boutique, 242 W. 10th St., nr. Bleecker St.; 212-255-7573.

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Filed Under: FIT, Forest Boutique, juliana bass, tastemakers